May.

• Soju on the pavilion. Not illegal to drink in public here. Score.

• Seoul City is mobbed. They love their neon lights and blinky signs. Epileptic’s nightmare.

• There’s a big yellow thing in the sky. I’m from the Tundra and therefore can’t be certain of its motives.

• Kimchi is orgasmic.

• The best part of Korean culture must be the jjimjilbang. The worse is selling bunnies in plastic bags on the street, and skinning fish alive.

• Haejangguk will cure any hangover.

• Only in Korea would you find a group of teenage boys sitting in the local park practicing their origami.

• I am not mae-guk. I am yon-guk. Now quit staring.

Suwon

When Paldalmun reared up in front of my taxi a week after landing on the Spring-kissed shores of leafy South Korea, I finally got that existential knuckle-sandwich I'd been needing for a very long time.

I got out. Stared. Pulled the perfect startled-bunny tourist face.

"Oh."

This was, of course, a fairly substantial understatement.

What I meant to say was "Holy shit... I'm in Asia!!"

Arrival.

Dear Louise,

I picked this card for 2 reasons: firstly, it reminded me of the day in Dysart when you took such beautiful pictures and I just sat and thought. Secondly, I thought it would be nice to have a little piece of home stuck on your wall or fridge to look at when you get homesick. I remember when I craved home and how comforted I felt when I looked at pictures. I hope this card brings you the same comfort when you need it.

I am going to miss you so much. You have been so instrumental in welcoming me to Scotland, Edinburgh and into the Blackwood family. Christmas time won’t be the same without you. I am SO proud of you for taking this chance and you can trust me; it will change your life forever. Here I impart 3 pieces of advice:

1. Don’t give the time of day to random boys – S. Korean or otherwise. Always listen to your gut.
2. Try everything and accept every invitation (except when it contravenes with piece of advice no. 1)
3. Enjoy every day – savour the sweet moments and learn from the shite ones.

Call/email/write anytime. Big hugs and kisses. Your (very near) future sister-in-law,

Kaki xoxo

Just below, my brother had scrawled a picture of a cat saying “Rawr” along with the following:

Be safe and make the most of it, because when you get back you will have to get a real job! Love Dave.

I laughed a little into my fourth glass of orange juice. The Glaswegian sitting beside me snorted in his sleep.

Says it all really.

I closed the shutter against the cloud-sprinkled Himalayas, and went back to sleep.